The Pearl Harvesting Season is Here! A Dialogue with Newly Harvested Pearls: Q&A on the Full Journey from Cultivation to Finished Jewelry
In October, the breeze in Zhuji carries the gentle luster of pearls. As the "Hometown of Chinese Freshwater Pearls", the Pearl Opening Festival in Xialihu has long been a national focal point. During the celebration of the inaugural (International) Pearl Opening Festival, visitors from across the country gathered here to witness the pearl harvest and experience the thrill of opening mussels.
Starting in October, the freshwater pearls of Xialihu enter the concentrated harvesting season—these treasures nurtured within mussel shells for several years embody decades of farming wisdom from Zhuji. Riding this wave of enthusiasm, Xiao Ji visited a pearl farming base to exclusively interview a freshly harvested freshwater pearl. It even specially invited its "Edison brother" to recount their complete journey from birth to "meeting a new owner"!
GUILD × Freshwater Pearl Interview Series
GUILD: Many people know that Zhuji freshwater pearls are famous, but few know how they are cultivated. Could you share your "birth stories"?
Non-bead Freshwater Pearl: Hello everyone! I am "Brother", a traditional nucleus-free freshwater pearl. My life began with the "Mother" carefully cultivated by Zhuji artisans—the Triangle Sail Mussel (*Hyriopsis cumingii*)! Once the "Mother" reaches 2-3 years of age and grows to 7-9 cm, she can begin nurturing me.
Next, the artisan performs a precise "grafting surgery" on the "Mother". A thin slice of cells is taken from the mantle of another healthy Triangle Sail Mussel, cut into 1-2 mm squares, and carefully implanted into the connective tissue of the "Mother"'s mantle using specialized tools.
Afterwards, the "Mother" is moved to a farming pond in Zhuji. The water here is soft, with a pH value of 7.5-8.5 and sufficient dissolved oxygen. Artisans feed plankton and algae daily and regularly clear weeds and sediment from the pond. I grow slowly within the "Mother"'s mantle, layer by layer depositing nacre. This process takes at least 3-5 years.
Edison Pearl: Hello everyone! I am "Brother" Edison Pearl. Though my name sounds Western, I am of authentic Zhuji lineage! My "Mother" is also a Triangle Sail Mussel, but my "birth" involves an additional step: nucleation!
Unlike my brother, I am a nucleated freshwater pearl. The artisan first prepares a spherical bead nucleus, typically ground from shell, with a diameter of 3-6 mm. After polishing the nucleus until smooth, it is implanted together with a small piece of mantle tissue into the "Mother"'s mantle.
This step is more difficult than grafting. The nucleus cannot be too large, or the "Mother" may reject it; nor can it be too small, or I will not grow to a significant size. Artisans have developed the optimal combination of "nucleus + mantle tissue." Additionally, after nucleation, the "Mother" is given a separate month of rest to observe for any rejection reactions.
My cultivation cycle requires 2-4 years so that I become lustrous and sturdy. I typically grow to 10-15 mm, significantly larger than my brother, with better roundness!
GUILD: The difference in "skin tone" and shape between you "two brothers" is quite obvious. What primarily determines this?
Non-bead Freshwater Pearl: Our skin tone is half determined by genetics and half by Zhuji's "terroir"! My common colors are white, orange, and purple. The Triangle Sail Mussel naturally tends to produce white pearls. If the "Mother"'s mantle cells contain higher levels of carotenoids, I will lean towards pink.
As I am nucleus-free, my growth relies entirely on the natural accumulation of nacre. Therefore, my shape is mostly near-round or oval; perfectly round pearls are rare. My size is generally 6-10 mm. However, my advantage lies in my pure nacre layer and soft luster, making me appear particularly gentle when worn against the skin.
Edison Pearl: My "skin tone" is far richer than my brother's! Besides classic colors, I also come in an iridescent series with metallic luster. Since I grow with a nucleus, the bead nucleus guides the even accumulation of nacre. Therefore, I am mostly perfectly round, with much better roundness than my brother. My diameter is also larger; 10 mm is the starting point, and 12-15 mm is very common. I stand out particularly well when worn.
GUILD: I heard that before you meet a new owner, you have to pass several "tests"?
Non-bead Freshwater Pearl: Of course! From emerging from the mussel shell to reaching the market, we must pass through several checkpoints!
Checkpoint 1: Initial Screening After Harvest
Immediately after harvesting, artisans perform an initial screening based on our "appearance," categorizing them into classes such as ready for direct sale, suitable for treatment, or unsuitable for treatment.
Checkpoint 2: Cleaning "SPA"
When I first come out, I am covered in mussel mucus and fine impurities. The artisan uses a soft wool brush dipped in water to gently brush along the pearl's texture. If the mucus is stubborn, I am soaked in diluted neutral detergent for 10 minutes before being brushed clean. After cleaning, I am placed in a cool, ventilated bamboo sieve to dry; direct sunlight must be avoided.
Checkpoint 3: Polishing and Luster Enhancement
This is our "highlight moment"! Zhuji artisans use polishing powder with extremely fine particles that do not harm us. During polishing, we are placed on a low-speed polishing machine (rotation speed not exceeding 500 rpm) and gently buffed with a wool wheel. The artisan checks the luster continuously, focusing on any uneven areas until the entire surface shines brightly.
Checkpoint 4: Grading and Selection
Equipment that automatically sorts pearls by size and color provides a preliminary classification. Afterwards, skilled graders conduct a strict "selection" based on color, luster, surface blemishes, shape, and size. After comprehensive evaluation, we are categorized into different grades corresponding to different values. Depending on the new owner's requirements, we may be drilled and labeled with our grade and size, completing our entire "challenge" journey!
Zhuji: Upholding Half of China's Freshwater Pearl Industry
GUILD: Speaking of which, we must mention Zhuji's contribution to China's freshwater pearl industry. As the "Hometown of Chinese Freshwater Pearls," Xialihu in Zhuji is the world's largest base for freshwater pearl farming, processing, and trading. Saying it "upholds half of China's freshwater pearl industry" is no exaggeration.
In the early years, Zhuji people achieved large-scale ecological farming of Triangle Sail Mussels using traditional grafting techniques: planting aquatic plants in ponds to purify water quality and co-culturing silver carp to control plankton. This protected the environment while steadily improving pearl quality. Today, Zhuji's annual output of traditional freshwater pearls accounts for 80% of China's total and 70% of the global total. The freshwater pearls of many countries can be traced back to this source.
In terms of processing and branding, Xialihu has gathered over a thousand pearl enterprises, forming a complete industry chain from cleaning, grading, and polishing to design, setting, and sales. In recent years, GUILD's inspection and educational tour teams have visited Zhuji multiple times for study and observation. We also held the 2024 Aurora Glow International Jewelry Competition Award Ceremony here, promoting the beauty of Zhuji pearls together with everyone.
Zhuji has also established the "China Freshwater Pearl" regional brand to promote the integration of pearl culture and tourism. Events such as the 520 Pearl Conference and this year's Pearl Opening Festival have transformed "mussel opening" into an activity that the public can participate in and experience, allowing more people to learn the Zhuji stories behind the pearls. Nowadays, visiting Xialihu to check in, opening mussels by hand, and selecting a few favorite pearl jewelry pieces has become a must-do for many tourists.
More importantly, the pearl industry has effectively driven income growth for surrounding farmers. Many have achieved a prosperous life by farming and processing pearls, passing this craft down through generations. It can be said that every freshwater pearl in your hand likely bears the mark of Zhuji.
Conclusion
In October, Zhuji, the mussel shells conceal nature's gentleness and the dedication of pearl practitioners. As a large batch of pearls enters the market, remember to keep your eyes open when purchasing pearls. Look for the GUILD Pearl Identification and Grading Report, which can accurately authenticate pearls, distinguish varieties, and provide strict grading to help you choose with confidence.
If you are curious about the full journey of pearls from cultivation to finished products, wish to experience mussel opening firsthand, or delve into the core technologies of the pearl industry at Zhuji bases, welcome to sign up for the GUILD Pearl Study Tour! Accompanied by professional mentors, step into farming ponds and processing workshops to immersively experience the craftsmanship and charm of the pearl industry.
